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by Eve Stahl
Many of
us waiver between the extremes of simply rinsing our face
with water to avoid drying out our skin or the use of harsh
alkaline based cleansing products that strip the skin of its
natural protective oils. It can be difficult to know what
is best to do since a facial cleanse needs to remove both
water soluble and oil soluble debris. Fortunately there are
balanced solutions available.
Let’s have a closer look
at the purpose of the first phase of skin care - the facial
cleanse. Our skin comes in daily contact with myriad toxins
from exhaust fumes, communicable germs, re-cycled air at the
work place and more. Add a hot climate or physical activity
to the equation and perspiration holds toxins intended for
elimination on the skin’s surface. Water alone will not
effectively remove the debris.
Equally worthy of
consideration is the harm caused by harsh alkaline soaps.
They strip your skin of its beneficial protective barrier -
the acid mantle, which keeps out harmful bacteria. In
defense the skin produces rough callous cells. The
production of sebum (oil) by the sebaceous glands becomes
unbalanced in reaction to drying soaps. Oily skin gets
mixed messages. In response to sudden dryness it
compensates by producing excessive oils. Dry skin becomes
extremely dry. It appears sallow and becomes rough in
texture.
What
should the perfect cleanse do?
A perfect cleanse
affords deep yet gentle cleansing that soothes and nourishes
the skin leaving it feeling clean, balanced, soft and
glowing with vibrant health. Yes! All from a cleanse.
What ingredients will
offer this end result? Natural ingredients! Gentle use of
clay will remove and absorb toxins without stripping the
skin. Seaweeds nourish the skin with minerals, amino acids
and other valuable nutrients. Oats are cleansing, soothing
and calming especially for sensitive skin.
Liquid cleanses are
valuable for cleansing the skin while simultaneously feeding
it the benefits of vegetable oils specifically chosen for
their therapeutic properties and suited to different skin
types. A word of caution though, most liquid facial
cleansers contain sodium lauryl sulfate which is reported to
cause eye irritation, skin rashes, hair loss, scalp scurf
(similar to dandruff) and allergic reactions. According to
a report released to the FDA in 1978, when combined with
other synthetic chemicals sodium lauryl sulfate can create
cancer causing N-nitrosamines.1
Lauryl, laureth sulfates and other coconut derivatives are
used to create suds and foam. We have come to associate
lots of lather with good cleansing. Nothing could be further
from true. The suds and foam may be fun, but they do not
assist the cleansing function and they are a definite sign
that a harmful ingredient is present.
Why Exfoliate or
Mask?
Exfoliates are used to
remove dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin.
This brings young skin cells to the surface and stimulates
cell growth in the lower layers of the skin. Removing cell
build up on the surface of the skin makes wrinkles appear
softer and smoother - less deep. Although beneficial for
some skin types, it is important to be gentle with sensitive
skin and thin cuperose skin. If exfoliating is overdone or
harshly done it can irritate the underlying layers of the
skin by exposing the cells prematurely. Use only natural
exfoliates that will be gentle. Exfoliates do not need to
be harshly abrasive in order to be effective.
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